Solidarity

It’s been just over three weeks since DANA – the catastrophic floods that hit Valencia on October 29. The damage is unfathomable. Approximately 70 different communities outside of the city of Valencia have been affected, and many of them have been destroyed.

Rescue teams have come from all over Spain, and from France, Italy, Portugal, Morocco, and even Mexico. More than 8,500 soldiers, 10,000 police and firemen, and hordes of volunteers are engaged with the clean-up efforts. Nearly every day when we’re walking about the city in the late afternoon or early evening, we see young people in clothes covered in mud returning to their homes with brooms and shovels in hand. Lately, we see them wearing masks and with plastic bags wrapped around their boots and legs. The mud they’ve been shoveling has become infectious. It’s estimated that the bodies of about 3,000 farm animals and several hundred pets are buried in the mud.

The people of Valencia are outraged by their government’s actions and inaction during and after October 29. Last Sunday, a rally was held in Valencia and more than 130,000 people gathered protesting against the regional government and asking for the resignation of the head of the Valencia government for his handling of the situation both pre and post disaster. They marched through the streets of the city from Plaza Ayuntamiento (the central town square) to the building that houses the Generalitat Valenciana (the governing body of the Valencian Autonomous Community), a beautiful Gothic palace built in 1421, just around the corner from our flat. Walking by this building the next day, we found red paint handprints around the main entrance. On another wall, someone had spray-painted “asesino” (murderer) on the palace wall.

The government response was, in various important ways, completely inadequate. Warnings were not issued until well after the streets had begun to fill with water and people were outside shopping, working, and driving their cars. There is a story of one man who received the alert when he was already up to his chin in water.

Barbara, our housekeeper, finally made it out of her apartment after four days. She contacted me the next week to let me know she was back to work. She needed the money. A couple of days later, when Barbara arrived at our place, she fell into my arms sobbing uncontrollably for several minutes. She kept repeating, “¡Es horrible!” We were heartbroken and deeply touched as we listened and attempted to provide support. Eventually, she pulled herself together and got to work because that’s what must be done.

The city of Valencia, where we live, looks unaffected with people going about their normal business. It is, however, still on everyone’s minds and hearts. We hear sirens and helicopters often and now instead of weather alerts we get health alerts warning those in affected areas and volunteers helping with the cleanup efforts to protect themselves from illness by wearing appropriate protective gear. Transportation into the city is also still impacted. The Metro has opened a few lines and the high-speed train to Madrid has just re-opened this week. Of course, these are minor difficulties.   

I belong to the International Women’s Club of Valencia which has a membership of about 300 expats. Every day, I receive several messages about opportunities to donate, volunteer, and support locals in the efforts to help those in need. We are participating in as many of these activities as we can. Last week, we delivered bags full of school supplies to the one of Valencia’s universities. The faculty of the Department of Education are collecting supplies for some of the schools that were destroyed. Small groups all over the city are making meals to deliver and requests for ingredients are sent out daily. On our street there is a casal (neighborhood association) that is hosting almuerzo (the meal between breakfast and lunch) on Saturday. They’re charging €6 for the meal and all proceeds will go to flood victims. Another shop is selling a plate of Jamón Ibérico (Spain’s famous ham) for €5 and donating what they collect.

World Central Kitchen has set up operations in the port area of Valencia and has already provided nearly 300,000 meals, set up 30 distribution sites, and is partnering with numerous local restaurants. I spent a few hours there today helping to put food into containers. We plan to go back several days next week. I’ve long admired José Andrés and the amazing organization he has built. I never imagined I’d live in a place where World Central Kitchen was needed.

We often see and hear the slogan “solo el pueblo salva al pueblo” which translates to “only the people can save the people” posted on signs, spread on social media, chanted by the protest marchers, and murmured  among many of the thousands of volunteers.

I’ve read that this spirit of solidarity is reminiscent of a famous letter by Antonio Machado, a Spanish poet, written to a friend during the Spanish Civil War. He described how the government had abandoned Madrid, but it was the citizens themselves who organized and defended the capital from Franco’s fascist forces. For him, this bravery was no surprise, but something inherent to ordinary people, who have always known how to stand up for their own when all else fails. Today, in Valencia, this is evident in the many gestures of help and solidarity after DANA.

Initially, I was a bit enamored with this slogan and the way it pays tribute to the generosity and solidarity of the Spanish people helping one another in a time of need. I also felt some discomfort with the implicit rejection of the important role of government in dealing with catastrophes such as DANA.  Unsurprisingly, the frustration and anger felt by so many in the affected towns in Valencia provide fodder for right-wing politicians to promote distrust in and opposition to Spain’s democratic institutions.

You would think I’d be acutely aware of this ploy having watched both U.S. and E.U. politics evolve over the last decade or so. I believe the right turn toward populism in much of our world is a threat to democratic thought, practice, and institutions. Just like the MAGA politics in the U.S., the adoption of certain language and idioms of democracy and freedom are often used deceptively to actually promote the antithesis of democracy, freedom and equality. Slogans like “solo (ONLY) the people can save the people” may contribute to a dangerous distrust in government. Yes, the people are saving the people. But so is the government.

“Every crane, every truck, every pump, every road opened, every highway repaired, every train reestablished, every infrastructure recovered, has had democratic politics behind it.”

Rafael Simancas, NuevaTribuna, November 17, 2024

As the adage goes, democracy is messy. There are shortcomings and failures, to be sure. We have seen those here in Valencia. However, we are at our best when we, the people, work hand in hand with our democratic institutions to create and maintain a civil society.

As I experience and reflect on all that is happening in our beautiful, adopted city, I am confronted with the vulnerability of our communities to natural disasters as the impacts of climate change accelerate. We seem to have passed a point of no return and we need our governments to increase attention on disaster mitigation and preparedness going forward. I am inspired by the resilience and unity displayed by the people of Valencia. The bravery and kindness demonstrated by so many here in Valencia highlights, for me, the important role of community in overcoming adversity and illustrates the remarkable strength found in compassion.

Solidarity is more than just a concept. It’s a lived experience that strengthens communities and fosters resilience. Ed and I feel privileged to witness and honor this essence of Spain.