A Country Respite

After five days of Napoli’s frenetic energy, we were ready for a quiet, peaceful country escape. And that’s exactly what we found in a 16th century stone house in the heart of Umbria. We left Napoli and after a quick train change in Roma, we found ourselves in the town of Orvieto. Umbria is beautiful – lush green rolling hills dotted with medieval towns and villages, olive groves, vineyards, stone farmhouses, and hilltop castles. After picking up our rental car, we headed to the small town of Todi where we’d reserved a room in a lovely Bed & Breakfast.

Todi is a hilltop town that is renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture, narrow winding streets, and beautiful views of the surrounding countryside. In the center of Todi is the Piazza del Popolo, a picturesque square featuring a Gothic-style12th-century Duomo (Cathedral). Todi is also famous for its underground tunnels and cisterns, which date back to the Roman era. 

BEST MEAL OF THE TRIP

Our rural B&B, Il Ghiottone Umbria, began life in the mid 1500’s as a grain mill. In addition to the ancient stone house, there is an underground cavern carved from the rock that now serves as a wonderful kitchen. Our hosts, Lizbeth and Thomas, are chefs from Denmark who moved to Todi 14 years ago. Perhaps the highlight of our stay here was preparing dinner one evening under the tutelage of Lizbeth and Thomas. We began around 5:00 PM and wine was involved. Bonnie started by making a panna cotta and getting it in the refrigerator to chill, while I started cleaning and preparing the calamari for one of our starters. We both took a hand in prepping the artichokes for our second starter, and then I prepared the egg pasta for the ravioli, while Bonnie built a simple semolina dough for the cavatelli we would be learning to shape later. While the doughs rested we prepared the pea and ricotta filling for the ravioli – broccoli and sausage to sauce the shaped pasta. I’ll spare you a step by step recitation by simply saying every dish was sensational and we learned more than we could have imagined. Oh, and Bonnie’s panna cotta was the best I have ever tasted!

Lizbeth and Thomas prepared a multi-course breakfast every day that was equally amazing. Next time you find yourselves in Umbria, we’d highly recommend a stay at Il Ghiotonne – www.ilghiottoneumbro.com.

Au natural

The day after our epic cooking experience, we visited Tili Vineyards for a tour and wine tasting. A few minutes from Assisi, this family run farm produces wine, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar. The Tili family first arrived in Assisi and were awarded their land in the 12th century for “service to the king.” Then, in the 15th century, the Pope granted them a license to produce and sell wine and olive oil. And that’s what they have been doing ever since, one generation after another. Today, their vineyard management is completely organic and the wines are produced using only completely natural, chemical free methods. The result is a fresh, vibrant, and unique wine experience. We enjoyed several glasses of white, rose, and red wine along with bruschetta, salami, cheese and bread. A favorite is their Sagrantino. We bought a few bottles to keep with us and sent a case to Valencia.

a spiritual moment

Assisi is a special place. While it’s one of many hill towns with beautiful medieval architecture and a stunning view of the countryside, Assisi also has spiritual significance as the birthplace of Saint Francis. The modest basilica that was erected to honor the saint is world famous for the frescoes that cover every surface, each panel illustrating a moment in Francis’s life journey. While not typically very interested in Catholic saints, St. Francis’s devotion to humility, compassion, service to the poor, and a deep connection with nature was inspiring, and I was particularly moved by the bronze monument that sits in front of the church. It depicts Francis as a young, defeated soldier returning to Assisi, humbled before god and seeking his will. Very powerful image.

Umbrian cuisine is simple, rustic, and delicious and we learned a few more pasta shapes and sauces. A favorite is the classic Umbrian pasta Strangozzi al Tartufo (a thick spaghetti) served with a sauce made from black truffle, olive oil, garlic, and sometimes a little pecorino cheese. Wow was that good! 

A reluctant goodbye

As we made our way back to the Orvieto train station to return our rental car and head north, everywhere we looked the hills were covered in a robe of thick green, and the trees were covered in ripe buds ready to burst into life. Spring was ready to launch all across Umbria and I was already regretting that we would not be there to taste the results in our temporary stone home.

Next stop: Bologna.