Italy

Sicily to Rome the Slow Way – Ed’s Perspective

I couldn’t resist. As soon as I saw that you could take a train from Catania to Rome, I had to add that ride to our train experiences. Only the Italians could come up with a plan to put an entire train on a ferry to cross from Sicily to the mainland. So, why not? We had not even come close to fully experiencing Rome and here was an opportunity to a make another visit. Besides, I rationalized, the airfare from Rome to Valencia was far cheaper than from Sicily. Never mind that the train would be a nine-hour trip. It runs right along the western coastline most of the way. Very exciting. 

The morning we boarded was wet and cold . . . again. Oh well. We would be tucked into our cozy train seats, enjoying the scenery, warm and dry. The train made a couple of stops, and then we were approaching the port city of Messina at the northern tip of Sicily. The train slowed to a crawl and I watched on Google Maps as the track simply ended at the water’s edge. Looking out the window it soon became clear that we were slowly moving onto a ferry with tracks built into the deck. A section of train would be loaded, separated from the trailing section which would then be directed to an adjoining track. Our train only filled two of a potential five tracks on the ferry. When all was secured, the doors to the train car slid open and we were free to explore the ferry. It was all done smoothly and efficiently, without drama. Actually, kinda anti-climatic. Except that I love being on the water, and the novelty of leaving our train to wander about the deck of a ferry was really sort of surreal.

Forty minutes later, we were back on dry land, our train reassembled, chugging north to the Italian capitol and a date with the religious epicenter of Western Europe.

Next Stop: Patience – Bonnie’s Perspective

With practice, we’ve become pretty good at travel logistics. Getting ourselves from Point A to Point B can sometimes be challenging, but we navigate the chaos of airports, train stations, bus terminals, and metro stops with ease stations with ease most of the time.  We do our homework, arrive early, take it slow, stay flexible, and help each other keep track of belongings. We have systems that work. Usually. Every once in a while, something goes awry. Case in point: our journey from Catania to Rome.

Boarding a train in Catania at 8:30AM, our expected arrival time in Rome was 6:30PM. Ten hours is a long time to spend on a train. No problem. It would be a day of rest and time to write our blog post about Sicily. We grabbed a croissant and cappuccino at the train station before boarding and planned to buy lunch at the café car on the train. Around noon, Ed went hunting for the café car and returned shortly with disappointing news: vending machines would have to do. Cookies, chips, and crackers was our lunch menu. Not our usual midday fare.

Then, somewhere between Naples and Rome, there were “technical difficulties” resulting in a delay of about two hours. Twelve hours is a long time to spend on a train. No problem – these things happen. When we finally arrived in Rome’s massive central train station around 8:30PM, we figured we could still make it to dinner after a quick 30-minute taxi ride to our hotel. Nope. The taxi line was very long, and a single taxi was appearing every 3-4 minutes. Plan B: have dinner while standing in line. Just inside the train station was a pizza place, of course. When I ordered 4 pieces of pizza, I didn’t realize I had ordered 4 very large squares that would each be cut in half after reheating in a small oven. With two bottles of water and a box full of pizza in hand, I returned to the line to find Ed had moved forward all of about two feet.

By the time we finished dinner, we’d moved forward another 3-4 feet. There were dozens of people in front of us and the taxis were still arriving at a slow pace. No problem. We were in Rome, after all. And, we had a little entertainment to help pass the time. We had noticed, as is typical in Italy, 3-4 soldiers hanging out just outside the train station in their army fatigues and carrying big guns. I suppose they were keeping us safe. From what I’m not sure, but their presence was oddly disturbing and reassuring at the same time.

A few minutes after finishing our dinner, a loud crash of breaking glass startled us. We turned to see a drunk guy, who had been laying on the ground near the taxi line, had dropped (or thrown) a bottle of booze on the pavement. Within seconds, he was pinned to the ground by soldiers. In a few more seconds, four soldiers grew to eight soldiers. A few minutes later, police officers started arriving on the scene – eight of them. After 15 minutes of discussion, the drunk was released and stumbled into the train station. The soldiers dispersed after a few minutes, but the police officers seemed to have a lot to discuss, and they stayed for another 20 minutes or so. It occurred to me that there were lots of mafioso in Italy to be apprehended, but Ed didn’t think it was a good idea to offer this suggestion to the officers.

The taxi wait turned out to be 90 minutes and we finally made it to our hotel around 10:00PM. We decided to hit the sack because our alarms were set for 6:00AM to get to the 7:15AM meeting spot for our Vatican tour the next morning. We were journey weary, but no problem – we were in Rome!

The Vatican – Ed’s Perspective

Being as this was our second trip to Rome in the past year, we decided we  really needed to check the Vatican box this time. We were both pretty ambivalent about it, at this point. In the past two years of bouncing around Europe, we have been in more churches than our previous two decades, but it’s Saint Peter’s Basilica, Michelangelo, Botticelli, the Sistine Chapel, the absolute pinnacle of Western European art and architecture. Right?

We paid a premium for the extra small, very early tour group, our intent being to give the experience the best chance for success. We hauled ourselves over to Vatican City just after sunrise, a little grumpy – cold, rainy, no breakfast. (Good news, by the way. It has been cold and rainy every single day since the first of March, so climate change was clearly a hoax.) We lined up with a couple of thousand others there to beat the crowds, and listened to our guide explain that we were attempting to visit the Vatican three weeks before Easter in a Jubilee year. “What were we thinking?” she chided.

We dutifully followed our tour guide through the corridors, stairs, anterooms, waiting rooms, inner rooms, and salons, all filled with an overwhelming abundance of treasures. We were allowed 15 minutes in the Sistine Chapel to stare up at the ceiling. I decided this time limit was quite an important safety precaution as more than this would undoubtedly cause an epidemic of neck problems. 

We then made our way to the massive Saint Peter’s Basilica which is so big that the human mind is literally not capable of perceiving the scale. Which, sort of begs the question, what was the point? In any case, while Saint Peter’s is the largest Catholic Church in the world, it is also pretty similar to all the other Catholic Churches in the world. Well, except for the fact that it is littered with some of the most treasured art on the planet. At the end of the tour we were offered the opportunity to wander about on our own and join the cue of “pilgrims” making their way through the special door where touching the jamb during a Jubilee year results in the forgiveness of all your sins from your whole life. Really. We didn’t make this up. 

And so, we left Vatican City (add one more visited country to the list) feeling a vague sense of dissatisfaction that I had to ponder a bit to understand. We grabbed a table in a nearby cafe and sat discussing it for a couple of hours and I think came to understand at least some of our unease. 

First, there’s the architecture. What becomes clear as you make your way through the compound, is that the entire edifice is very specifically designed, arranged, and decorated to provide the maximum shock and awe as you approach the Pope’s audience chamber. It is, in fact, a massive palace whose primary aim is to intimidate all who enter and impress upon them the immense power of the man who lives there. In this sense, it is no different than all the other celebrated, secular seats of power around the world – Versailles, Buckingham Palace, etc. Not long ago, we heard a sermon from a Christian minister in a Texas church point out that Christian Nationalism has always been the point of formally organizing the church. Constantine in the third century, he explained, was the first Christian Nationalist, turning the new religion into his base of power. This notion really resonated with me and  the Vatican is the fullest expression of this quest for power and wealth through religion. Well, at least for now. (It would seem there is another project in North America attempting to replicate this model.)

Second, there’s the matter of the art. Many years ago now, I was privileged to be involved in the design and construction of a small palace for a multi-billionaire in Los Angeles (back when a billion dollars was a lot of money). The project took a couple of years, and in that time, I had exposure to a world of wealth and luxury that I could not have imagined, previously. Among the many things I took away from that experience, was the casual way that people with this kind of wealth live, surrounded by priceless art and antiques, as though it had been picked up from the local thrift store. (Well, to be fair, it was generally used.) I was flooded with that same feeling as we toured the Vatican. Priceless treasures haphazardly distributed without a lot of care, certainly not displayed for the appreciation of the public. Rather, these artifacts and the geniuses who had created them, were merely the trappings of power and wealth, carelessly scattered about. In fact, it turns out that the Italian government actually had to negotiate an agreement with the church to require access by the public to these treasures. Otherwise, the Vatican would choose to limit access, so as not to be bothered.

Take The Pieta, as an example. Michelangelo created this masterpiece at the age of 24 (hard to process) and there it sits, off in the corner, so to speak, poorly lit, behind a wall of scratched plastic panels, where it is pretty much lost in the general interior hub-bub of the basilica. Contrast this with the way Florence displays The David – alone, in a purpose built room, with flawless lighting, and an understated, yet elegant complimentary decor. Only one of these was a spiritual experience, for me. 

To put it simply, wandering the rooms and hallways of this vast complex, the disrespect shown by the owners of the Vatican’s vast collection for the genius of the artists and artisans, and their extraordinary achievements, is palpable. It’s a casual expression of privilege, born of extreme power, that resonated with my experience decades earlier in Los Angeles with the billionaire.

So, is the Vatican an amazing place? Sure. I am not sorry we made the effort. The art and architecture are stunning. The context, however, is unsettling and has lessons for our current moment where extreme wealth and power have been allowed to accumulate to an elite few. History, as they say, may not repeat, but it certainly does rhyme.

So Many Pastas, So Little Time – Bonnie’s Perspective

Stunning art and architecture aside, the real reason we visit Italy is the food. Having spent 7 weeks in Italy over the last 2 years, I was feeling confident about my knowledge of pasta shapes. Beyond the familiar and ubiquitous shapes that we all know and love – spaghetti, linguine, rigatoni, fettuccine, penne – we’ve enjoyed tortellini and strozzapreti in Bologna, gigli in Florence, agnolotti and plin in the Piemonte region, bigoli in Venice, strangozzi in Umbria, to name a few. In Sicily, I added busiate to my list of known pasta shapes. A medium length, twisted pasta, busiate gets its name from busa – a grass that grows all around Sicily. The stem of the busa grass is used to shape the pasta.

My feelings of accomplishment and pride were vanquished when a quick internet search revealed that Italy is home to over 350 officially recognized varieties of pasta and there are many more regional variations. This project is going to require more time, and more trips to Italy.

AKA Arancini – Bonnie’s Perspective

Supplí, Rome’s version of arancini, is a much-loved street food throughout the city. Larger than arancini, this Roman snack comes with numerous different fillings, but “supplí clasico” includes tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. It’s common to see Romans standing on, or walking along, the street munching on a supplí. Embracing this cultural behavior, we had to do the same!

A Different Appoach – Bonnie’s Perspective

A sprawling city layered with history, Rome can feel overwhelming. On our first visit in 2023, we were racing around trying to see as much as we could – the Pantheon, Coliseum, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, etc. It was a quick introduction to the Eternal City and one we will always treasure. This time, we decided on a different approach – one neighborhood at a time.

Other than our early morning trek to the Vatican, we spent our time in Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood. Nestled on the West Bank of the Tiber River, Trastevere feels like a small village within a big city. It’s a charming and vibrant neighborhood with a bohemian vibe, cobblestone streets, narrow alleys, ivy-covered buildings, and rich history. It feels authentically Roman. Mornings are quiet with locals shopping at small markets or enjoying coffee in a piazza. In the evenings, it’s much livelier with the many outdoor cafes filled with locals and tourists.

Wandering about one morning, we discovered the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of the oldest churches in Rome. Originally built in the 3rd century, it was rebuilt in the 12th century. The church’s façade features a golden mosaic and inside the portico, the exterior walls of the church are covered with ancient tombstones from the early Christian era, the Middle Ages, and the Renaissance period, and even a few pagan sarcophagi from early Rome. We were captivated by the way this space preserves the lives and faith of Romans across many centuries.

The inside, the basilica is richly decorated with marble walls and 22 granite columns that were repurposed from a Roman bath complex. The coffered ceiling is gilded, and the stunningly beautiful mosaics in the apse, created in the 12th century, rival those we saw in Ravenna last year.

So, instead of rushing about, it seemed we were able to actually feel Rome, not just see it and we left with memories, not just photos.

Viva la Roma!

We have been “on the road” now for nearly four weeks, from mid-March to early April, winding our way up the Italian peninsula. One of the joys of the trip has been the watching the landscape slowly awaken from winter’s slumber into a glorious, verdant spring. From the first plump buds, pregnant with possibility in the vineyards of Umbria, we have watched as the earth has birthed another season of life in a cacophony of greens and yellows. This joyful transformation has seemingly reached a crescendo in the lush hills of the Piemonte.

We have always loved the Northwest!

Rolling hills, vineyards, orchards, hilltop medieval villages, and castles everywhere, the Langhe region of Piemonte is a delightful rural retreat into nature after the glamour and polish of Milan. The vineyards produce world-class wines and the cuisine is rich and hearty. As if that weren’t enough, toss in stunning views of the Alps. We always seem to be drawn to the northwest! 

Over hill, over dale,
Through bush, through briar,
Over park, over pale,
Through blood, through fire,
I do wander everywhere . . .

William Shakespeare – “Midsummer Night’s Dream”

A Respite with Wine

A small, luxury resort, Casa di Langa, perched near the top of a hill to allow for storybook views, became our home for a few days. We spent them wandering about the countryside, tasting wine, and feeling genuinely awestruck by the beauty of the place. We have some experience with the world’s great wine regions, but the Langhe is the most picturesque we have ever seen. This is the home of the mighty Nebbiolo grape used to produce the celebrated Barolo and Barbaresco wines, and we had a lot to learn. Good progress towards our educational goals was made at Ca’del Baio winery. The Grasso family have been farming here since 1870 and began making wine in 1921. Today, they grow all their own grapes and are committed to organic, sustainable farming methods. We had an appointment for 2PM and as we got out of our car, we were greeted by Federica, one of the three sisters who are currently running this family business along with their parents. Federica took us on a tour of the winery while sharing her family history. Her passion for Langhe and winemaking was infectious. We spent a couple of hours tasting a variety of wines, learning about the idiosyncrasies of the Nebbiolo grape and the farming of this famous varietal. 

It turns out the success of these wines is a fairly recent development. While wine has been made in the region for millennia, it was traditionally a simple, fresh wine, produced in small amounts for the consumption of family and friends. As late as the early 60’s, Langhe farmland was primarily sought by poor farmers searching for an affordable patch to eke out a living. No one from the region dreamed that the seemingly untamable, highly tannic Nebbiolo could be turned into world class wine. In the early 70’s, a handful of restless offspring from these farmers spent time in the French wine regions. When they returned home armed with a whole new understanding of the potential for their home region’s vineyards, a transformation was born. Among the key insights, was the fact that Nebbiolo requires aging to be reach its potential. A Barolo Riserva, for example, must be aged for a minimum five years before it can even be released for sale and, these wines won’t begin to reach their potential until at least a decade has passed. Within a single generation, the Langhe went from poverty to affluence as their wines have become some of the most sought after in the world. 

A Sneaky Wine

So, what’s in the glass? The first thing that gets your attention is the nose – flowers, maybe roses, against a backdrop of licorice? A very distinct bouquet that was consistent across all the Nebbiolo wines. The color is surprisingly light, not the deep saturation you associate with big red wines made to age. So, you have this flowery bouquet and a nice light color and then you taste. Wow! After a nice, seductive approach, the first taste is a powerful smack that has you asking, “where did that come from?!” This is a big, tannic, powerful glass of wine with a long finish where the fruit lingers on tongue. It’s a wine to be paired with equally big flavors – rich meat sauce, risotto, and game. Such is our arduous lifestyle that, after arranging to have a case of Ca’ del Baio sent to Valencia, we had time for just a quick rest before our next wine instruction appointment with the sommelier at the Casa di Langa resort. Fortunately, no driving was required after this second lesson. 

Can you say Nutello?

While the Langhe’s terraced hillsides are reserved for Nebbiolo, the valleys are the province of the hazelnut orchards. Italy is second only to Turkey in hazelnut production, and the prized variety grown in Piemonte, Nocciola, is a frequent ingredient in the local cuisine. In addition to the obvious – hazelnut gelato, hazelnut cake, and hazelnut chocolate delicacies (think Ferraro Rocher) – it’s not unusual to find these delicious nuts generously sprinkled on savoury dishes of the region. But, the grandaddy of hazelnut indulgences is a product that originated here in Piemonte and is ubiquitous all over Europe – Nutello. One local described being transported home by the aroma from a freshly opened jar of the creamy chocolate hazelnut spread.

Go Local

A Piemontese dinner often starts with Battuta di fassona al coltello, a beef tartare made with the meat of the local fassone cows. A simple and absolutely delicious combination of raw meat, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper, this dish demonstrates the importance of using the best local ingredients to create magic. For the next course, Agnolotti del Plin was a favorite. This small stuffed pasta, sort of a cross between ravioli and tortellini, is filled with meat or vegetables, tossed with sage infused butter, and sometimes sprinkled with chopped hazelnuts. Then there’s Tarjarin, a fresh noodle similar to tagliatelle that is made with several egg yolks and then tossed with either butter and sage or with a meat mixture made from a special sausage from the nearby Piemonte town of Bra (where the slow food movement was founded). 

We’re Not in Pasta Anymore

Risotto is another local (and personal – especially for me) favorite. Rice in Italy might seem odd, but it turns out Italy is Europe’s largest producer of rice with most of the fields found in Piemonte where the runoff from the Alps supply plenty of fresh water. While arborio is the most common risotto rice, its sister rice, Carniola, is called the “Rolls-Royce of rice” because of its super creamy texture. There are many recipes for Piedmonte’s risotto, and we are lamenting the fact that we had time for just a few. We will need to return.

Earthy Magic

And then, there’s truffles. In the forests around Alba, a small township in Langhe, the most famous and prized Italian white truffles are foraged. Black truffles are also foraged in Piemonte and, for a few more Euros, it’s possible to have your Agnolotti del Pin, Tarjarin, or risotto topped with shavings of these gastronomic jewels. 

So Many Castles

After a few days paradise, we were ready for another urban adventure. The capital of the Piemonte region, Torino (Turin), is about an hour north from the Langhe. Torino is a hub of art, Baroque architecture, dozens of medievel churches, and rich history. The Savoy family, the regional royalty, built a total of six castles in the area – one rivaling Versailles in size and grandeur – until the Italians decided in 1861 that they wanted to be a republic rather than a monarchy. I’m not sure why so many castles were necessary, but now many of them are museums and art galleries.

 Lunch like a Local

Our time in Torino was short, but really whetted our appetite for a future visit. Strolling down a narrow lane in the old city, we stumbled on a tiny restaurant, serving traditional Piedmontese food, with three small outside tables. A simple menu, handwritten in Italian, consisted of four appetizers, two primi (pasta) selections, and two secondi. We chose two appetizers and both pastas along with a couple glasses of wine. While we were waiting for our food, the owner – an older Italian man, sat down at a piano near the restaurant entrance and began to play. With a mix from classical to improvisational jazz, he serenaded us for our entire lunch. Three young Irish men stopped to listen, continued on for a few steps, then doubled back and asked for a table next to us. They were in Torino to attend a football match and the five of us enjoyed the unexpected concert, shared stories of our travels, and savored wonderful fresh pasta. These completely authentic experiences are why we travel. 

Chocolate Treats

After lunch, we had just enough time for another Torino treat – chocolate. We waited in line for a few minutes to get a seat at Caffé Bicerin where they’ve been serving their namesake drink, Bicerin, since the 18th century. Bicerin is made with three ingredients – espresso, chocolate, and cream. The important thing is to avoid mixing it “thereby allowing the various ingredients to come together directly on the palate.” We also discovered gianduiotto chocolate, a delicious combination of chocolate and, you guessed it, hazelnuts. As we walked back through the old city towards our car, we talked about all that things we want to see and do when we return to Torino, including checking out a couple of those castles.

 Arrivederci, Italia! Viva la France!

A Grand Welcome

While not quite as awe inspiring as that first view of the Grand Canal in Venice, arriving at the Milano Centrale train station was another “Oh Wow” moment. The Art Nouveau architecture with grand arches, soaring ceilings, abundant natural light, and intricate decorative mosaic floors made for a nice welcome to Milano. Our time in Milano was actually split in two, sandwiched around a few days in the Piemonte region which will be the subject of another post all its own. So, this post is sort of a mash-up of two quick visits.

International Glamour

Milano is the economic engine of Italy as any Milanese will be happy to remind you. It is justifiably famous as a hub of fashion and design for all of Europe, and has been the financial capital of Italy since the country was unified in 1861. It truly lives up to this reputation, however, like many large, modern cities, it takes a bit of probing, patience, and local knowledge to uncover its character. To celebrate our arrival, we enjoyed a dim sum feast, our first non-Italian meal in over two weeks!

The Historic Center

Despite its modernity, we wanted to glimpse a bit of the old city, so we began with a walking tour of the historic center. Milano is literally centered around the Duomo Milano (cathedral) with its grand plaza. This type of city plan is not unusual, of course, but it’s wonderful to see that central focus survive centuries of development and sprawl. Near the cathedral is a massive 15th century palace – Castello Sforzesco – and the famous La Scala Opera House. Our appetites were certainly whetted for a return visit to explore these historic edifices at more leisure. The palace alone contains six different museums! And, sitting right next to the duomo we found the entrance to one of the most exclusive fashion malls in the world, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

A Masterpiece

Milano is also home to Leonardo da Vinci’s “Last Supper”, so we could not pass up the chance to pay homage. There is probably no other painting more familiar from childhood than this image of Jesus and his disciples at the moment he announces his betrayal. Leonardo’s mastery of perspective, and his nuanced portrayal of human emotion is so powerful that is has been credited with kicking off the high renaissance period and was as famous in his own time as it is now. It was commissioned by Ludovico Sforza, the duke living in the palace mentioned earlier, as a gift to the monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie to decorate the dining room. Leonardo’s notion was that the monks would feel like they were all sitting down to dinner  together with Jesus and the twelve. This seems like an awful lot of pressure to put on the cook! It was fascinating to see and understand the painting in the space it was created for and imagine the room set for a meal. The atmosphere in the room was reverent and the image is still captivating despite the familiarity.

Botteghe Artigiane (Artisan Workshops)

Our second day began with a tour organized by the National Geographic Society focused on artisan workshops in a neighborhood called Isola (island) due to its historically isolated location, literally on the other side of the tracks. We were privileged to visit the shop of a tailor from Senegal who survived polio before finding his way to Milano. Cheikh is combining his colorful African heritage with modern Milano fashions to create unique clothing and accessories with his passionate advocate and business partner, Valeria. At another workshop we were treated to a demonstration of traditional bookbinding methods, while a third craftsman gave us a lesson on the art of furniture restoration and repair. Here only the tools, materials, and methods from centuries of woodworking are used to remain true to the origins of each piece of furniture. Finally, before heading to lunch we visited a jewelry atelier where the owner is working to provide a second chance to emotionally challenged and handicapped individuals. “After all,” he explained, “artists are all a little bit crazy.”

Urban Design

When we returned to Milano from a four day sojourn in the vineyards and hill-towns of La Langhe, we focused on the modern elements of Milano. That same Isola neighborhood is undergoing a renaissance of contemporary planning and development. Stunning modern building design is combined with thoughtful open parks and playgrounds to create an urban oasis integrating residential, office, and education buildings in a harmonious tableau. We spent a delightful evening on a terrace in the heart of a this new neighborhood enjoying the sights and sounds of families out strolling, knocking a football about, and testing all of the playground accoutrements. This was Milano showing the way to the future. And, of course, the design and construction all around us is a particular passion of mine.

Construction Excellence

I was particularly impressed by several of the projects currently underway. High-rise buildings with elaborate integration into an existing underground subway system are complex builds.  These project sites were highly organized and unusually clean. State of the art safety measures were evident throughout and it was clear to an experienced eye that the sequence of installation was on a tightly orchestrated schedule. In short, the whole picture was an order of magnitude better than I have come to expect on a job site back home. Milano construction is first rate, and as for the architectural designs, there is an emphasis on clean lines, and graceful massing. The newest buildings have what I would describe as an approachable nature, not exotic just for the sake of novelty, but with attractive detailing and artistic grace. If this is the future of the built environment, perhaps I should be a little less pessimistic. 

Postcard Perfect

In a final hoorah before leaving Italy for this year, we jumped on a train to Lake Como for a day trip excursion around the playground of the rich and famous. Arriving in the glamorous town of Como, we jumped on the “water taxi” for a two hour jaunt that skipped along from town to town until we reached Bellagio. We disembarked there to explore and have lunch on a terrace overlooking one of the most picturesque places we have ever been. The shore of Lake Como has been a luxury retreat and repository of wealth for two thousand years. Palaces and luxurious villas line the miles of shoreline and climb the steep hillsides that frame the pristine water in a seeming endless display of wealth. Yes, the rich inhabit a very different world from the rest of us. A little wearied by the unending opulence, we boarded the train for Milano to prepare for our arrivderci. Buona fortuna, Italia!

Next stop: Lyon, France.

One of the joys of traveling the way we’ve chosen to – by train as much as possible – is the pleasure of arrival. No sterile airport many miles outside the city. No waiting for baggage, or struggling with how to find transportation into the city. You simply walk off the train, typically into a grand station from another era, and step into the heart of the city. Exiting the train station in Venice is the ultimate “OH WOW” moment. The Grand Canal stretches out in front of you, water taxis, gondolas, and water buses churn the water, church domes gleam in the background. It’s breathtaking, and something I suspect never loses its charm.  We looked at each other with big smiles on our faces and said, nearly in unison, “We’re in Venice!” 

A Mistake That Can Be Fixed

We hopped onto a bus (aka boat) and after a few stops along the Grand Canal, we arrived at our hotel. It was mid-afternoon, so we dropped our bags and walked along the canals and narrow alleyways, over a couple of bridges, and through some lovely piazzas to have lunch at a charming (and delicious) restaurant. As we ate lunch we discussed our obvious mistake: planning just two days in Venice. Fortunately, this is an easy mistake to correct. From Valencia, it’s just a 1.5 hour flight to Pisa and then a 4 hour train ride to Venice. We started planning our return trip over dessert.

This is a Problem

As we walked along the canals, Ed kept pointing out the fact that the water was very nearly at the level of the sidewalk, slopping onto stoops, and lapping up against the sides of buildings. He’d look at this situation and mutter, “this is a problem.” I lost track of how many time he repeated this sing-song phrase. I told him to relax and teased him a bit about the anxiety he seemed to be feeling. “It’s not your problem. There’s nothing you can do to fix it. We’ll be fine. I’m sure it will all be fine.” 

It’s the Moon’s Fault

We pushed our dinner reservation, at a starred restaurant on St. Mark’s Square, back to 8:30 so we’d have time to wander about and take in the beauty of the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica. When we arrived at the restaurant we climbed two flights of stairs to the dining room where we enjoyed a leisurely meal overlooking the square accompanied by plenty of wine. We got up from the table about 11PM, and as we approached the stairs, one of the restaurant staff appeared to escort us down.

“My apologies, Madam,” he said. “There is some water in the restaurant.” 

“What? In the restaurant?” I asked in alarm.

“Yes, Madam. It happens sometimes.” 

Behind me, I heard a mumbled “this is a problem.”

“We can offer you some boots to put over the shoes,” he suggested helpfully.

“How much water?”

“Just a little. Maybe six centimeters.”

Of course, I didn’t want to appear to be some kind of newbie tourist, right? And really, how bad could it be? I declined the offer. As we stepped outside, I realized my error. There was about 3-4 inches of water on Piazza San Marco. By the time we got back to our hotel, my socks, shoes, and bottoms of my pant legs were completely soaked. We squeaked our way across the lobby to pick up our room key and when I explained about our wet feet to the concierge, he explained helpfully, “it’s because of the moon.” Okay. Maybe, this is a problem.

Some research was in order. It turns out, it was sort of a perfect storm situation. Piazza San Marco is the lowest part of the island. High tide was a 11PM that night. It was an extra high tide because the moon happened to be very close to the earth during our stay in Venice. Note to self: when in Venice, check the tide schedules and the current phase of the moon.

Dinner Party Research

The next morning we started with a stand-up cappuccino and then met our walking food tour guide. For the next three hours, we wandered about the city sampling traditional Venetian street foods such as fried mozzarella, cynar (an artichoke liquor) spritz, gelato, fried fish and calamari. One of the unfamiliar dishes that we really enjoyed was Scampi Saor, a traditional Venetian appetizer. Saor refers to the technique of marinating fish or seafood in a mixture of finely sliced onions, pine nuts, raisins, olive oil and vinegar. We made a note to include this delicious dish on the menu for our next dinner party featuring Italian cuisine.

Where words fail, music speaks –

Hans Christian Anderson

Without music, life would be a mistake –

Fredrick Nietzche

Our final evening in Venice was delightful. After dinner, we strolled through the darkened narrow streets, over canal bridges, and across small piazzas to the San Vidal Church for a performance of Antonio Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. The great Baroque composer spent forty years of his life in Venice and composed his most significant pieces there. It was thrilling to hear these masterpieces passionately performed, by virtuoso musicians, on instruments from the the era (including a wonderful clavichord). We were transported to another time by the beautiful baroque interior and the music came alive in the acoustic environment it was written for.  What a wonderful way to wrap up our introduction to Venezia!

On to Milano . . .

Restored by a few days in the Umbrian countryside, we were ready for new adventures. We boarded a north bound train in Orvieto headed to Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, known as the gastronomic heart of Italy. Just our kind of place! It’s in this region one finds Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Prosciutto di Parma, Balsamico di Modena, mortadella, and pastas such as tortellini and tagliatelle, and lasagne Bolognese. We’d been in Emilia-Romagna’s capital city of Bologna for less than 24 hours when we fell in love . . . again. What a wonderful city!

THREE TIMES A LADY

You get a small sense of Bologna’s charm by first understanding her three nicknames: La Rosa (The Red One), La Dotta (The Learned One), and La Grassa (The Fat One). Red is a recurring color in Bologna’s architecture and also refers to the leftist politics of the city. La Dotta refers to the University of Bologna, the oldest university in the western world, founded in 1088 and considered one of the best in Europe. The 90,000 students make up about one third of the city’s population which gives the place a youthful vibe that is intoxicating, particularly for us old folks. The reference to La Grassa requires no explanation given the long list of amazing foods that the Bolognese enjoy. Spoiler alert – there’s a walking food tour coming up. 

A UNIQUE REAL ESTATE STRATEGY

Another of her charms is also a defining feature of the city’s architecture: porticos. Over 24 miles of covered walkways stretch across the city, each with its own character including elegant columns, frescoes, weathered stone, and intricate marble and terrazzo floors. Walking under these gracefully arching structures that date back to the medieval era is absolutely enchanting and provides a sense of continuity with the city’s past. It’s an opportunity to slow down, savor the moment and be immersed in the architectural elegance of this utterly beguiling city. This unique feature seems to have originated with a city planning requirement hundreds of years ago that demanded broad walkways in front of all buildings in the city center. The real estate developers of the era devised these elegant porticos as a way to comply with the regulation while also allowing them to build above the required walkways to the full limits of the lot lines. They thus maximized their profit while providing an incalculable benefit to the city and its future. Bravo!

THE QUADRILATERO

A historic food market in the heart of Bologna, the Quadrilatero, is known for its narrow streets and bustling atmosphere, filled with local vendors selling a wide variety of fresh produce, meats, cheeses, pastas, and other culinary delights. The market is a vibrant hub of activity, drawing locals and tourists alike. This is also where we started our walking food tour. Our first stop turned out to be the highlight – a small sandwich sort of deliciousness – tigelle bread filled with lardo (pork fat) and a sprinkling of pecorino cheese. The bread is the thickness of a fat cracker with the texture of a tender waffle about size of a drink coaster. The bit of meat, cheese, or lardo filling is just the right balance of flavors to be totally habit forming. We went back to the same shop for a tigelle breakfast twice more including a quick dash before our final train ride out of town.

As we strolled through the Quadrilatero market, our guide picked up a few things – mortadella, soft cheese, salami, and bread. After an hour so so, we stopped at Osteria del Sole, a traditional wine bar that has been serving in the same space since the 15th century. It’s a strictly BYOF venue. That is, to enter the establishment every customer is required to have a glass of wine and you are encouraged to bring your own food. For a proper lunch, our guide led us to a small trattoria for a traditional Bolognese meal of tortellini in brodo (broth) and tagliatelle el Ragú. Of course, we finished the tour with gelato.

CHEESE HEAVEN

A 45 minute train ride the next morning took us to the nearby town of Parma, where we drove through the countryside to a Parmigiano Reggiano cheese factory. There are about 300 of these “caseifici” in the Parma area, most of them small, family run operations. We stopped at one of these factories that offered a chance to observe the cheese making process. We watched the milk, fresh from the cows that morning, being heated in copper cauldrons. After the addition of rennet, the resulting curds are separated from the whey and the cheese placed into molds to form its characteristic wheel shape. After resting for 24 hours, the cheese wheels are submerged in brine baths before being transferred to aging rooms, where they will mature for a minimum of 12 months (and often much longer) under controlled conditions.

There are strict regulations governing the production of Parmigiano Reggiano that dictate everything from the breed of cow used for milk, the type of hay and grass they are fed, and the ingredients allowed in the cheese. At the end of the tour, we taste different ages of Parmigiano Reggiano ranging from 12 to 36 months and sometimes even longer. It was wonderful to sample the subtle differences in flavor and texture that develop over time in this iconic cheese. 

HOG HEAVEN

Next, we visited a “prosciuttifici,” to learn about the process of transforming raw pork legs into the delicate, savory delicacy known as prosciutto. The selection of high-quality pork legs is the first step. Then, the legs are massaged, trimmed and salted to draw out moisture and enhance flavor. Next, the legs undergo a resting period before being rinsed and left to air-dry in specialized curing rooms. Over many months (or even years, depending on the desired flavor profile), the prosciutto slowly matures, developing its distinctive texture and flavor. Of course, no visit to a prosciutto factory would be complete without a tasting session washed down with a glass or two of Lambrusco.

PROGRESSIVE POLITICS – 6TH CENTURY STYLE

Another day trip from Bologna started with a short train ride to the seaside (Adriatic Sea) town of Ravenna. In preparation, we brushed up a bit on the history of the late Roman and Byzantine empires – particularly the era of Justinian and his wife Theodora. The particular relevance of this history to Ravenna is preserved in the stunning collection of mosaics adorning the churches built by this 6th century power couple.

The buildings and their mosaics were created to celebrate the reconquest by Justinian of Roman territory that had been lost to the invading northern tribes in an ill-fated attempt to return the empire to it’s glory. The mosaics are a mix of imperial projections of power with Christian symbolism and scenes from the Bible. The vibrant colors, intricate designs, and meticulous craftsmanship left us awestruck. My personal favorite is of Empress Theodora and her court. This powerful woman promoted the rights of women and forced changes in the legal code protecting women’s rights that are still referenced today for their progressive and enlightened view. Justinian outlived Theodora by 17 years and historians of the era recorded that he mourned her loss everyday until his own death in 565.

THE PINK QUEEN

We cannot leave Bolongna without one last food theme. As a child, a bologna and cheese sandwich was without a doubt one of Ed’s favorite things. Of course, as children we had no real understanding of the roots of this ubiquitous sandwich meat. Even as adults we’ve had only a cursory understanding of the wonders of Italian sausage traditions. As with so many of the foods we grew up with, it takes a visit to the source to realize what that stuff in the Oscar-Meyer plastic was vaguely hinting at. Mortadella is referred to in Bologna as “the pink queen” and it is a revelation. Across the city you will find salumeria selling mortadella as everything from tidy four inch cylinders to mammoth rolls twelve inches and larger. Shaved in thin slices it is almost translucent with lovely white nuggets of flavorful lard. As fate would have it, one of the best mortadella laboratoria (a sandwich shop selling nothing but mortadella) was located next door to our hotel. Ed’s new favorite sandwich involves a mountain of shaved mortadella dressed with a generous dollop of pistachio cream. Perfetto!

We had five days in Emilia Romagna and felt sad to leave. As we headed down the porticoes toward the Bologna Centrale train station, we turned to each other and agreed, “we could live here.” Maybe, someday . . . 

Next Stop: Venice. 

After five days of Napoli’s frenetic energy, we were ready for a quiet, peaceful country escape. And that’s exactly what we found in a 16th century stone house in the heart of Umbria. We left Napoli and after a quick train change in Roma, we found ourselves in the town of Orvieto. Umbria is beautiful – lush green rolling hills dotted with medieval towns and villages, olive groves, vineyards, stone farmhouses, and hilltop castles. After picking up our rental car, we headed to the small town of Todi where we’d reserved a room in a lovely Bed & Breakfast.

Todi is a hilltop town that is renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture, narrow winding streets, and beautiful views of the surrounding countryside. In the center of Todi is the Piazza del Popolo, a picturesque square featuring a Gothic-style12th-century Duomo (Cathedral). Todi is also famous for its underground tunnels and cisterns, which date back to the Roman era. 

BEST MEAL OF THE TRIP

Our rural B&B, Il Ghiottone Umbria, began life in the mid 1500’s as a grain mill. In addition to the ancient stone house, there is an underground cavern carved from the rock that now serves as a wonderful kitchen. Our hosts, Lizbeth and Thomas, are chefs from Denmark who moved to Todi 14 years ago. Perhaps the highlight of our stay here was preparing dinner one evening under the tutelage of Lizbeth and Thomas. We began around 5:00 PM and wine was involved. Bonnie started by making a panna cotta and getting it in the refrigerator to chill, while I started cleaning and preparing the calamari for one of our starters. We both took a hand in prepping the artichokes for our second starter, and then I prepared the egg pasta for the ravioli, while Bonnie built a simple semolina dough for the cavatelli we would be learning to shape later. While the doughs rested we prepared the pea and ricotta filling for the ravioli – broccoli and sausage to sauce the shaped pasta. I’ll spare you a step by step recitation by simply saying every dish was sensational and we learned more than we could have imagined. Oh, and Bonnie’s panna cotta was the best I have ever tasted!

Lizbeth and Thomas prepared a multi-course breakfast every day that was equally amazing. Next time you find yourselves in Umbria, we’d highly recommend a stay at Il Ghiotonne – www.ilghiottoneumbro.com.

Au natural

The day after our epic cooking experience, we visited Tili Vineyards for a tour and wine tasting. A few minutes from Assisi, this family run farm produces wine, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar. The Tili family first arrived in Assisi and were awarded their land in the 12th century for “service to the king.” Then, in the 15th century, the Pope granted them a license to produce and sell wine and olive oil. And that’s what they have been doing ever since, one generation after another. Today, their vineyard management is completely organic and the wines are produced using only completely natural, chemical free methods. The result is a fresh, vibrant, and unique wine experience. We enjoyed several glasses of white, rose, and red wine along with bruschetta, salami, cheese and bread. A favorite is their Sagrantino. We bought a few bottles to keep with us and sent a case to Valencia.

a spiritual moment

Assisi is a special place. While it’s one of many hill towns with beautiful medieval architecture and a stunning view of the countryside, Assisi also has spiritual significance as the birthplace of Saint Francis. The modest basilica that was erected to honor the saint is world famous for the frescoes that cover every surface, each panel illustrating a moment in Francis’s life journey. While not typically very interested in Catholic saints, St. Francis’s devotion to humility, compassion, service to the poor, and a deep connection with nature was inspiring, and I was particularly moved by the bronze monument that sits in front of the church. It depicts Francis as a young, defeated soldier returning to Assisi, humbled before god and seeking his will. Very powerful image.

Umbrian cuisine is simple, rustic, and delicious and we learned a few more pasta shapes and sauces. A favorite is the classic Umbrian pasta Strangozzi al Tartufo (a thick spaghetti) served with a sauce made from black truffle, olive oil, garlic, and sometimes a little pecorino cheese. Wow was that good! 

A reluctant goodbye

As we made our way back to the Orvieto train station to return our rental car and head north, everywhere we looked the hills were covered in a robe of thick green, and the trees were covered in ripe buds ready to burst into life. Spring was ready to launch all across Umbria and I was already regretting that we would not be there to taste the results in our temporary stone home.

Next stop: Bologna. 

Buongiorno! 

This year’s Italy adventure is underway! To start our month long journey, we flew to Napoli last Saturday and spent five wonderful days in this capital city of the Campania region of southern Italy. There are several descriptors that come to mind when thinking about our time in Napoli…charming, chaotic, beautiful, noisy, energetic, gritty, authentic, raw, invigorating, and exhausting.

Despite its rough edges, there is a beauty in Napoli’s resilience. It seems to be a city that embraces its imperfections and is intensely proud of its history, culture, and cuisine (pizza!). Napoli is a city where life is lived passionately and at full throttle.

As you might expect, we booked a walking food tour in Napoli. A favorite food tour company, Culinary Backstreets, provides tours that focus on experiencing food like the locals do which typically involves stopping at places we would probably never otherwise think to enter. (Remember the Barcelona Tripe and Trotters post?) We started the day with classic Italian pastries and coffee followed by a stop at at tiny shop where we sampled bacalhau (dried cod) re-hydrated and served raw (think ceviche) with delicious local olives. The proprietor’s grandfather started the business and he is proudly continuing the family tradition.

STREET MARKET

A walk through the old city brought us to a huge street market. Before taking on all the market had to offer, we stopped for what our guide claimed to be something good for our digestion. A man working at a small kiosk made each of us a unique drink that consisted of freshly squeezed Amalfi Coast lemons (they’re very sweet and huge), sulfur water (it had a strong sulfur smell and taste) and a teaspoon of baking soda. Once the baking soda is added, an eruption occurs making it necessary to move quickly, spread your legs, bend over, and hold the cup away from your body as you take the first swallow. The name of this traditional Neopolitan digestivo is “limonata a cosce aperte” which translates to “open legs lemonade.” Ed wasn’t a fan because the sulfur taste was too much for him. I kinda liked it.

Our first stop in the street market was a cheese and meat shop. After ordering, we stood in the road outside the shop and enjoyed a wonderful sampling of local cheeses and salami. Ed’s favorite was the Fior di Latte which it turns out is the cheese one puts on the classic Margarita pizza. It’s a fresh cow’s milk mozzarella and is a bit different than the more well known (to us) buffalo milk mozzarella. Details are important. 

The next stop was a bakery where seven generations of the same family have made a special Neopolitan bread called friselle. It’s a sourdough bread dough and the shop owner/head of the family explained that the current starter they are using was begun after WW II when the Allies liberated the city. After baking, the bread is dried (think hard as a rock) which allows it to be stored for up to 3 months without spoiling. When it’s time to eat, the bread is dipped in water before being topped with chopped tomatoes or caponata. During Easter, there is traditional mussel soup recipe that uses this bread as a base. Neopolitan sailors used this bread for nourishment while at sea. They simply dipped it in sea water to soften it. 

NAPOLI TEA

Another there’s no way I’d ever stop here spot was a small cart on a busy street from which octopus broth was served. This definitely falls into street food category. The broth is made by cooking octopus in water with a little black pepper. When an order is placed, pieces of chopped octopus are placed in a large cup and broth is ladled over it. A squeeze of lemon and a squirt of hot sauce are options. Delicious! 

Our final food tour stop was lunch (I know, this is just too much food!). Before pizza, we sampled fried pasta balls, potato croquettes, and fried pizza. We didn’t eat again that day. 

A HIGHLIGHT

One of the highlights of our stay in Napoli was a tour of Pompeii. Pompeii is a mesmerizing archaeological site frozen in time, offering a glimpse into the complexity and sophistication of the ancient Roman civilization. Walking through its streets, we were transported back to 79 AD when the city was buried under layers of ash after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. We were well prepared for this part of our trip. Before leaving Valencia, we had watched a “Great Courses” lecture series on Pompeii and we were fortunate to have an extremely knowledgeable guide who did a nice job of curating the representative highlights for what would have been overwhelming otherwise. We had also spent the previous day in the Naples Archaeological Museum where most of the art treasures from Pompeii and the other sites along the bay can be viewed. With all this help and background, walking the streets brought this Roman city alive for us. It was a wonderful experience.

A BIT OF CULTURE

Our last night in Naples was spent at the opera. When we were in Vienna last year, we had tickets to an opera and were unable to attend because I wasn’t feeling well. I tried to convince Ed to go without me but he refused and this resulted in a debt I’ve been hoping to retire for some time now. Naples provided that opportunity. 

We hadn’t planned nor packed for a fancy night out, so some shopping was required. Ed bought a very cheap suit that he refers to as his plastic suit (aka polyester) and I found a dress sort of thing that I could wear over black pants along with my 10€ (plastic) dress shoes with rhinestone strap. A stop for a scotch in the hotel bar and off we went to see Norma, an early 19th century opera by Bellini. We were able to fit our new evening wear into our suitcases so we’re all set for another big night out should the occasion arise. And I’m quite relieved to have retired my debt. 

Our time in Campania provided insights into this fascinating region of Italy. Despite its attributes, Campania faces many challenges such as environmental degradation, organized crime, and economic disparities. However, its natural beauty, cultural richness, and warm hospitality were enchanting.

Next stop: Umbria.