Food

The Iberian Peninsula has been a dreary place for the past month – cold, blustery, raining every day. Beginning the first of March, we’ve also had to contend with Las Fallas, the annual insanity that is Valencia’s biggest festival of the year. (see this post for details: https://edandbon.com/march-madness/) We decided to head north to Catalonia, a neighboring region with its own quirky personality, rich history, and great food (https://edandbon.com/trotters-and-tripe/) to maybe change the vibe. From Valencia, we jumped on a high-speed train to Barcelona where we picked up a local train to make the final one-hour push to the picturesque little city of Girona.

The Medieval Quarter

Situated at the confluence of four rivers, Girona is the capital city of Girona Province which includes olive groves, forests, beaches, picturesque Pyrenees Mountain towns, and extensive nature reserves. The city has a population of about 100,000 and an old town compactly tucked in between the eastern foothills and the river with an almost entirely intact wall. Here, medieval stone is spread, stacked, stepped, and arched into a twisting labyrinth of passages, alleyways, and staircases that wind up the hillside, culminating in an immense cathedral that dates from the 12^th century. Arriving at a small family-owned inn around the corner from the cathedral, we dropped our bags and headed out to explore the artisan shops and small cafes that dot this ancient section of town. Here are a few of our impressions.

Culinary Adventures – Bonnie

The Barri Vell, Girona’s historic district, seems frozen in time. Yet, it is home to dozens of thoroughly modern dining experiences, carefully tucked into vaults and niches of stone. The contrast was jarring and intriguing. Combining modern gastronomy with Catalonia’s deep culinary roots was magic, as if the old world and the new were colliding on our plates.

Modern-day alchemists, these Catalan chefs present delicious food that is also art on a plate. Seafood carpaccio topped with delicate flowers. Morel mushrooms in a warm cream sauce. Mushroom broth with crispy truffle cheese. Spicy potatoes (bravas) with aji Amarillo and black pig sobrasada. Smoked grilled duck breast carpaccio from “Coll Verd,” homemade hoisin sauce, cucumber, and crispy chicken skin. Veal sweetbreads with creamy morels, roast sauce, and a veil of Iberian pork jowl. Poularde terrine with foie gras, wild sprout salad and red berries. And the finest rich, full-bodied wines from the Ribero del Duro and Rioja.

Time Travel – Ed

It was silent except for our footsteps on the cobbles echoing off the dimly lit stone passage. Sated and flushed, still savoring the rich meal and unctuous wine, I was startled by a sense of having suddenly passed through a veil into some kind of time warp. A low arch on the right, opening onto a stone staircase; massive wooden doors, banded by iron; cool damp; soft moonlight and moisture from a recent shower both dripping into the passage. A menorah tucked into a niche in the stone announces the beginning of the Jewish quarter. Shadows from the immense bulk of the great cathedral begin to appear ahead. There is no sign of modernity. Nothing but centuries old stone, silent witness to the passing of generations. For thirty minutes, returning to our bed for the night, the modern world has completely fallen away. We silently traverse a medieval city. I am a bit shaken. Disoriented. Enchanted.

The Wall – Bonnie

The weathered stone of Girona’s wall beneath my feet was cool and the air was filled with history. The earliest bits of the wall were placed by the Romans in the first century BC. The city stretches out below – sweeping views of the winding streets, red-roofed houses, and the green expanse of the surrounding countryside. Passing through small, arched doorways, led to hidden courtyards, secret gardens, and quiet nooks where time seems to have slowed. I felt a sense of tranquility in the elevated walk where every step is a connection to the past.

At the same time, hundreds of arrow slits evoke a mix of awe, solemnity, vulnerability, and isolation. Each narrow, jagged opening tells a story of defense and survival. There’s an almost palpable sense of tension, as if the wall is holding a silent, watchful presence, ready to unleash a barrage of arrows at any moment. Somber reflection of the harsh realities of a time when survival depended on such defenses. Humbling to contemplate.

Returning to Girona is a must. When the weather is warmer, the many trees are in leaf, and the sun is shining on the beautiful Costa Brava beaches, we’ll be on our way for another Catalan adventure.

The City of Terrassa

We headed back to Barcelona by train and then boarded a local commuter which, after about 35 minutes, deposited us at the center of Terrassa. Music and the arts, including theater, are deeply ingrained in Terrassa’s culture and we were drawn here by the city’s 44^th annual jazz festival. Known for music, particularly jazz, Terrassa has a vibrant music scene with numerous music schools and scores of local musicians.

Settled into a modern, boutique hotel, a world away from the 12^th century, we fell into a comfortable routine of desayuno (breakfast) at 11 AM, la comida (lunch) at 3 PM, siesta time, and a jazz concert at 9:30 PM. Terrassa, it turns out, is the perfect Fallas get-away. Planning for next March is already underway.

Jazz Trumpet at Twelve – Bonnie

It wasn’t until a couple of hours before our first jazz performance that we realized the lead musician would be a trumpet player who is just twelve years old. A big fan of jazz, we have often enjoyed both Wynton Marsalis and Chris Botti, two of the most famous and accomplished trumpet players of our day. So, we thought, hmm…how good could this kid be? Really good, it turns out.

Watching a 12-year-old take the lead in a jazz quintet was magical. As Martí Costalago stepped onto the stage with his trumpet, his face was a mix of concentration and excitement. His passion for creating music was palpable as his young fingers danced across the valves of his instrument. Martí led a quintet that evening and everyone on the stage was under 20 years old. In the second set, several other young people joined the jam session which lasted more than two hours. It turns out they are members of the Barcelona based Sant Andreu Jazz Band which features 7- to 20-year-olds.

Watching and hearing young people play music had a profound emotional impact. There was a kind of vulnerability in the air and at the same time, a sense of possibility filled the room – deeply stirring and full of hope. Their music was a pure expression of emotion that, for me, tapped into something universally human. I was in awe at how they carry the weight of their instruments with such grace and promise.

Saturday in the Park – Ed

Stepping onto the street for our last morning, we were delighted to find that umbrellas would not be required! After our usual coffee and tea, we began strolling in the direction of a mid-day, open air concert that was promised in the afternoon. Soaking up the sun, we found our path had led us to the Vallparadís Park, a 3-kilometer stretch of undulating greenery, streams, waterfalls, and playgrounds that sits at the bottom of a 25-meter-deep crevasse in the middle of the city. We stood over the park, studying the contours of the descent, and calculating the effort involved in hauling ourselves back out, screwed up our courage, and headed down slope.

Terrasso is a city of about 200,000 that was in its hey-day when the textile industry was booming in Catalonia during the 18^th and 19^th centuries. At street level, it reflects its heritage – repurposed warehouses and factories, dense housing, frequent plazas, all arranged in an attractive, but practical scheme that reflects both the Catalan aesthetic sense, and their business acumen. Descending into the park we left the city behind and entered a natural world that was a balm to our souls. Occasional patches of flowers, water gurgling in the stream, trees of all descriptions lining gentle wandering paths, and birdsong. Once again, I was startled by an environment. Here was the antidote to stress and anxiety that I have trouble even naming, let alone mitigating. I had not even realized how much I longed for nature. At that moment, I looked up to a nearby tree and suddenly realized that it was covered with tiny bits of green leaf peeking out from their wintry cocoons. Hope.

Local Food – Bonnie

Catalonia is known for world-class gastronomy, and Terrassa didn’t disappoint. Not so much a tourist city, we found ourselves dining with the locals. Good Thai food and delicious Neapolitan pizza alternating with traditional Catalan cuisine using in-season local ingredients made for some wonderful pre-siesta lunches.

Settling in and perusing the menu, we were faced with the challenge of not knowing (at all) the Catalan language. Each menu was presented in this unique language, which shares some similarities with both Spanish and French. Fortunately, one can request an alternate menu in Spanish (English being much less common) and our Spanish is getting better, especially when it comes to ordering food and drink.

Dining in Terrassa involves a bit less drama on the plate than in Girona, but the food is wonderfully creative and delicious. Leek stuffed with cod brandade, nori seaweed, garlic mousseline au gratin and sprouts. Roast beef with smoked nyamera cream and chimichurri. Lamb “tacos” with chipotle sauce and pico de gallo. Rice with pork rib, pumpkin and aioli. Cuttlefish casserole with Empordà-style meatballs. Lemon pie with biscuit base and yogurt foam.

Afternoon Delight – Ed

A stage filled with musicians, a few hundred chairs filled with happy, swinging jazz fans. Ahh, there’s a tiny drinks concession . . . ohh, and a queue. Patience. Breath in the music. Hmm, cerveza or vermut . . . cutting orange slices . . . for each vermut, one at a time. Finally, slipping into a chair and triumphantly delivering her a vermut . . . fresh orange slice and two olives. Azure sky. White, cottony post-storm clouds drifting overhead. Warmth from our star spreading from my face to my soul.

Thank you, Catalonia.

Postscript

We’re leaving tomorrow for another Italian adventure. After eight days in Sicily,  we’ll make a brief two-night stop in Rome on our way back to Valencia. All of you be well and take care of your mental health in these stressful times.